Lately, we have seen a few signs of recovery for the very idea of a bakery. You can even find bakeries that could be mistaken for at french boulangerie. Not many of them, of course – but have a try at Åpent Bakeri (yes, you are right, it means Open Bakery).  You will find the original one behind the Royal castle, in Incognito terrasse. They also have a few stores around the city, but this is the place to be for a pain-au-chocolat and a nice cup of coffee, and for the bread to bring home afterwards.

And, yes – the people in charge are French, of course.

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Well, they would probably be Swedish (if they are friendly). Service isn’t in the genes of Norwegians, and young Norwegians tend to go for other opportunities. Lucky then, that many young Swedes, having trouble finding work back home, come to Oslo to work in restaurants, bars and shops.

I wouldn’t dare to give an explanation, but the fact is that Swedish waiters tend to be more friendly and clever, working with a smile on their face, and that they have become so popular among Norwegian employers that they are by far outnumbering Norwegians working in restaurants in Oslo these days.

There are more than one, of course – but the place to go is The Dubliner in Rådhusgata 28. Since it  started up in 1996, The Dubliner  has established itself as the most authentic Irish pub in Oslo, serving beer and coffee from the green island to an ever growing audience of Norwegian and Irish/British expats. The people behind the bar are generally both friendly and native English speakers. Live music most weekdays (and Irish dance classes on Mondays!), and you can have a decent meal, too.

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The entrance is free, but you are of course expected to buy a drink or two. And don’t talk when they sing! Wait till they have finished singing…
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However, at Aker Brygge, paradoxically neighboured by some of the most expensive restaurants in town, you will find Rorbua. Here you are offered a ”today’s menu” for 125 kroner (14,5 Euro), coffee included. Fish is often on the menu.

The food comes in hearty portions, and the chef specialises in traditional Norwegian food. Service is excellent, even without any Swedish waiters.

Rorbua means the little cottage where fishermen up north used to stay during the fishing season, and the restaurant’s design is meant to be kind of fisherman’s rough style. That’s OK, as long as the food is better than what the fishermen usually had to eat in the old days.

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To start with: You can’t book a table. You will have to show up at the door. But it is not like the soup nazi, though – if it is crowded, you will in a friendly way be asked to wait in the bar at the other side of the entrance. When there is a free table, they will pick you up.  It may take some time, they’ve only got 23 chairs. It is worth waiting.

There is no menu. Or, there is in fact a list of ten dishes. Start at the top and work your way through. The whole lot will cost you 850 Norwegian kroner, a little more than 100 Euro, or you can make a deal with the waiter which ones to skip. All ten is a quite a challenge, believe me, but the food is delicious. And then there is the wine. Just bring it on.

Service is indeed informal. Don’t shout at the waitress, she would probably shout back. Don’t be shy if she cuddles your hair, or if the chef comes along and asks you to taste something new he has created, right out of the casserole. To put it simple: Do exactly as you are told.

The Palace Grill is one of the three elements in the same house. There is also the bar which  I’ve mentioned already, a little rough. Live music on Mondays. And then you have got ”Skaugum”, an outdoors bar in the backyard, open during a long summer.

There is a certain danger that the two bars are crowded with young aspiring people at the end of the week. Monday to Wednesday is recommended.
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One of the few places that serve the original bayer on a tap, they will also provide you with some other bottled sorts, and you can have a hot dog. That’s about it. And of course the friendly service.

Cash is king at Ferja – they don’t accept credit cards. That’s about all you have to remember.

Although Dr. Kneipp is as informal as you can wish, they stick to old fashioned service, and their list of wines are probably the largest in town. They have focused on Italy as the corner stone, but you will also have a decent choice of especially French and Spanish wines. Many wines are served by the glass, and they’ve got weekly offers. Prices are probably as low as they can afford – still, I have to warn you once again on Norwegian prices. It is, simply put, expensive to enter a restaurant. In this case, do it anyway.

Dr. Kneipp also provides you with what goes along with the wine; cheese, antipasti, and even a larger menu if you are in the mood. But remember that you are there for the wine.

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Dinner and smaller dishes are served on request, or you can stick to a beer or a glass of wine at the bar.

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